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Buying Guide

Barn Buying Guide

What to look at before you buy a metal barn: roof styles, sizing, framing gauge, certification, colors and site prep. Written by the Carport Central building specialists who quote these buildings every day.

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What to consider when buying a metal barn

What are you storing, and how big is the biggest of it?

A barn holding hay and two horses is a different building from one holding a tractor and a trailer. Measure the largest piece of equipment that has to get inside, then add three to five feet of clearance for doors and movement.

Remember the barn has three widths: the centre span and a lean-to on each side. Lean-tos are the cheapest square footage on the building, so undecided storage usually belongs there.

Where will it go, and is that spot actually level?

This is the question that delays the most installations. Your site has to be level across the entire footprint of the building, within about three inches front to back and side to side. Ground that looks flat, is close enough, or slopes just a little is the most common reason a crew has to reschedule.

You also need room to work. Plan on at least three feet of clear, level space around the whole perimeter, and remember the crew arrives with a dually pickup and trailer that runs fifty five to seventy feet long. Remote sites and steep ground can be genuinely inaccessible.

Does your county require a certified building?

Most buildings require a permit, and the only way to know what yours needs is to check with your city or county before you order. Some areas require every structure to be certified, some only certify occupied buildings, and some do not require it at all.

Agricultural buildings are sometimes treated differently from residential ones, which is another reason to ask before you order rather than after. Send us your zip code on a quote and we will tell you what your county asks for.

Will it stand up to your weather?

Weather should drive the roof style, the framing gauge and how enclosed the barn is. Heavy snowfall or wind driven rain is a reason to choose a vertical roof, close in the lean-to sides, and step up to 12 gauge framing.

Barns up to 24′ wide have a bow, and anything wider has a truss. In heavy snow country, extra bows or trusses are worth adding.

How much do you want to finish it?

Roof, sides and trim are specified separately, so the barn can be matched to the other buildings on your property. Gable ends hide the frame on open lean-to sides and add support, and J-trim covers the exposed panel edges.

Both are noticeably cheaper to order up front than to add on a return trip.

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Compare the Three

Roof Style

The roof is what stands between your barn’s contents and the weather, so it is worth matching to your climate rather than your budget. All three roof styles can be certified for structural integrity, and all three are structurally sound. What separates them is how they shed snow and rain, and how they handle length.

As a rule, the more severe your weather and the longer the building, the more the vertical roof earns its extra cost. We recommend a vertical roof on any building longer than 36′.

Vertical Roof Style metal barn

Vertical Roof Style Best

If you live in a climate with heavy snowfall or heavy rain, Carport Central recommends the vertical roof style. The vertical roof panels allow snow and rainwater to exit off the sides. This is an A-frame designed roof with panels installed vertically, with the corrugated ridges running from the highest point on the roof down the side of the building. We also recommend that all buildings longer than 36’ use a vertical style roof.

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Get the Dimensions Right

Choosing the Right Size for Your Needs

Width

A barn is measured differently from a garage, because there are three widths to think about rather than one. The centre building is the large open span, and the left and right lean-tos sit either side of it.

  • Centre building up to 70′ wide. Anything over 30′ can also be laid out as a workshop.
  • Left and right lean-tos up to 30′ wide on each side.

Work out the centre span from the largest thing that has to fit inside it, then add three to five feet of clearance for doors and movement. Lean-tos are the cheapest square footage on the building, so if you are undecided about equipment storage or covered working space, that is usually where to put it.

Length

Length is driven by what you are storing. Tractors and large farm equipment need considerably more room than one or two horses, and hay storage changes the maths again.

Metal barns start at 21′ and run 26′, 31′ and up in 5′ increments, and can be customised to the length you need. Barns and agricultural buildings run from 12′ to 70′ wide, and lean-tos are the flexible part of that footprint.

One detail worth knowing when you are planning clearances: the roof of every structure is longer than the base, because there is a 6″ overhang at each end.

Side Height

Barn height starts at 6′ and goes up from there, and like the width there are three heights to account for. The left and right lean-to heights match each other and sit below the side height of the centre building.

Height is measured at the legs, not at the peak. For the lean-to that means the distance from the ground to where the outside wall meets the roof, and for the centre building it means the height of the legs rather than the top of the roof. That is the number that decides whether equipment clears the opening.

Measure your tallest piece of equipment and add three to five feet. As a general guide, cars and SUVs need 7′ to 9′, RVs and boats need 12′ to 14′, and larger equipment needs 16′ or more.

Tell us what you are parking or storing and we will size it for you.

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Frame Strength

Steel Gauge Framing

What Is the Difference between 14 Gauge and 12 Gauge Framing?

The framing is the skeleton of the building, and it comes in two gauges. The lower the gauge number, the thicker and stronger the steel.

14 gauge is the economical option and the industry standard, measuring 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. It is the most nationally accepted gauge for metal structures and it is structurally sound for the majority of installations.

12 gauge measures 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ and carries a higher tensile strength, which translates into higher snow load and wind load ratings. We recommend 12 gauge for areas with heavy snow and high winds, and for any structure 10′ or taller.

Both gauges are structurally sound and both can be certified. All of our gauge options can be certified, but we can only offer our extended warranty when you select the 12-gauge steel option.

Not sure which one your build calls for? Send us your zip code and what you are storing, and we will put the right gauge on the quote.

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Permits and Engineering

Certification Considerations

Certified vs Non-certified Buildings

A certified building has been designed by an engineer and carries ratings for wind and snow load. A non certified building is the same structure without that engineering package, and it costs less.

Which one you need is decided by your local building department, not by us. Some states do not require certification because heavy snowfall and high winds are not a concern. Others require every new structure to be certified. Some inspect all structures, while others only inspect buildings people will live or work inside. Most buildings will require a permit of some kind, so check with your county or city before you order.

Two things worth knowing. There is no additional warranty on a certified building: certification means the structure is built to specification and certified by a professional engineer to meet local requirements, nothing more. And if you do need certification, you will likely need a copy of the blueprints for your inspector, so tell us before installation day and we will get them to you ahead of the crew.

Site preparation matters here too. The ground must be level and any concrete or asphalt pad must be wide enough to support the building and its anchors.

Tell us where the barn is going and we will check what your county requires before you order.

We can check what your county requires before you order.

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Design Choices

Popular Metal Barn Styles

  1. Raised Center Barn – These are also known as Carolina Barns or Step Down Barns or Carolina Barns. A Raised Center Barn features a main center section that’s flanked by shorter lean-to sections on either side. These barns feature the look of a traditional barn, while also delivering the advantages that come with a sturdy steel structure.
  2. Continuous Roof Barn – These are also known as Seneca Barns or Straight Roof Barns. Continuous Roof Barns offer all the functional interior space of a Raised Center Barn, while being covered by a continuous roof with a taller central peak. This barn design is great for handling both wind loads and snow loads.
  3. Horse Barn – A Horse Barn isn’t limited to a specific metal barn design. In fact, any of our popular barn designs can be customized for use as horse barns or livestock barns. Just get in touch, and we’ll be glad to help you design your perfect horse barn!
  4. Combination Barn Building – Need your barn to be more than just a barn? We provide barn garages, barn carports, and any type of combination barn building you can think of. All of our metal buildings are completely customizable, and we even provide barndominium and metal building home designs!

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Upgrades

Additional Options

Customize your metal barn with some of the options below. The possibilities are endless and the barn will last for a lifetime of memories.

Most of what makes a barn genuinely useful is decided at order time. These are the options worth thinking about before you buy, because several of them are far cheaper to include now than to retrofit later.

Windows

30″ x 30″ is the standard size and can go on any enclosed portion of the barn. Other sizes are available but vary by location, so ask us what is offered near you.

Walk-in doors

Useful for getting to one part of the barn without opening the main doors. They come with or without a window, in a white finish, and can be added later if you enclose the barn further down the line. Tell us at order time if you do not want the window.

Garage doors

Three things decide the right garage door: whether you will have electricity, whether the structure is tall enough to take one, and whether you want it now or later. Doors can go on the front, the end, or the side of the barn, which is often the easier access point for livestock or equipment.

Panels

If you like the open sided look of the A-frame style barn but want the option to close it in later, panels are how you do it. They can be added to any of the barn sides to enclose and customise it as your needs change.

Gable ends

A gable end hides the frame and braces on open lean-to sides, adds framing support, and finishes the roofline properly. It also helps the structure stand up to harsh wind and weather. Gable ends can be added after installation, but adding them to the original order avoids a second installation trip and the fees that come with it.

J-trim

Decorative trim that covers the exposed edges of the panels. If you are leaving a side or a portion of the barn open, J-trim finishes it and removes the sharp panel edge. Worth it on any property with children around.

Extra bows and trusses

These are the structural supports inside the roof and along the sides that add strength and stability. Barns up to 24′ wide have a bow, and anything wider than 24′ has a truss. In areas with heavy snow or intense weather, extra bows or trusses are worth adding.

Anchors

Anchors are what hold the building down in high wind, and the right type depends on what you are anchoring into. Concrete, asphalt and ground each take a different anchor, so this one is decided by your foundation.

Send us the options you are considering and we will price them into the quote so you can see what each one actually costs.

Optional upgrade for a metal barn 1
Optional upgrade for a metal barn 2
Optional upgrade for a metal barn 3
Optional upgrade for a metal barn 4

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Make It Yours

Colors

Choose your color, and the steel that carries it

Roof, sides and trim are specified separately, so you can match the barn to the other buildings on your property instead of settling for one flat color. Click any swatch for a closer look.

Color is tied to the gauge of the panel steel, and the two gauges carry different warranties:

  • 29 gauge carries a warranty of up to 20 years against chipping and cracking.
  • 26 gauge is heavy duty steel with a warranty of up to 40 years against fading, and offers industrial strength resistance to weather while still suiting residential designs.

Standard and specialty colors are available in both 29 and 26 gauge, and cover the full range from whites, beiges, sandstone, clay and tan through the reds, grays, browns, blues, greens, black and galvalume.

Premium colors are available at extra cost. Royal Blue is a premium color and is not available in 26 gauge.

Availability varies by region, so send us the colors you are considering and we will confirm what is available near you and show you the combination on a real building.

Color options for a metal barn

See These Colors on Real Buildings

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Before We Arrive

Installation and Site Prep

What “level” actually means

Unlevel ground is the single most common reason installations get postponed. For a metal structure, level means level across the entire footprint of the building, within about three inches front to back and side to side, and square. Not “it looks flat”, not “it slopes just a little”, not “it is close enough”.

It matters because the consequences are permanent. An unlevel footprint causes doors and windows that will not operate properly, visible gaps in the panels, and water or pest intrusion. It can also void the manufacturer’s warranty. On a barn, an unlevel footprint also throws the lean-to legs out of line with the centre building, which shows up as gaps along the roofline.

Level under the building, sloped away around it

The ground directly under the structure must be level. The ground surrounding the footprint should slope away from it, so water runs off instead of pooling at the base. Proper grading is what prevents standing water, soil erosion and foundation shifting over the life of the building.

What you are responsible for

Site preparation is the customer’s responsibility. Our crews assemble the building. They do not grade, level or excavate. Before installation day you need to have:

  • Obtained any permits your city or county requires
  • Checked zoning regulations and property setbacks
  • Called 811 to have underground utility lines marked, which is free
  • Cleared all debris, vegetation and overgrowth from the site
  • Left at least three feet of level clearance around the entire perimeter
  • Prepared and compacted the gravel, asphalt or concrete base

If a lift is needed for your build, that clearance goes up to ten feet clear of obstructions.

Access for the crew

The installation crew arrives with a dually pickup and attached trailer that totals fifty five to seventy feet long. Remote sites, steep hills and locations far out into a field can be genuinely inaccessible. If there is more than a fifty foot gap between where the truck can park and where the building goes, there may be an additional service fee for the extra time.

If your site requires safety training, an orientation or a safety video before anyone can work on it, tell us when you purchase so it can be noted on the purchase order. Depending on the length of the requirement, a fee may apply.

What happens if the site is not ready

The installation is postponed. Any grading or levelling then needed is done at your expense, crew availability shifts, and the project timeline extends. Getting the site right ahead of time is the cheapest part of the whole process.

Choosing your base

A concrete slab is the strongest and most durable option. It prevents shifting, is easy to clean, and is the right choice for garages, workshops and anything you intend to certify. Gravel is affordable and drains well, which suits carports, RV covers and smaller storage, provided it is properly compacted and level. An asphalt pad is smooth, stable and cheaper than concrete, and works for carports and small garages, though it does not hold up as well under heavy use.

Not sure your site is ready? Send us photos and measurements on a quote and we will tell you what still needs doing.

Not sure your site is ready? Send us the details and we will tell you.

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Common Questions

Barn FAQs

If I install a standard barn, can I customize the barn later?

Yes, any structure can be added to later. Sending a team back out means a site visit fee on top of the price of the new item, so it is worth telling us your plans now even if the work happens later.

If you want a partially enclosed barn now and fully enclosed down the line, say so on the quote. We will size and specify the first stage so the panels and doors fit when you are ready, which usually works out cheaper overall.

What is the widest barn offered?

The widest barn we offer has a centre building of 70′, with side lean-tos up to 30′ wide each. That limit is what keeps the structure strong enough to handle high winds and heavy snow. Length and height are customised to your needs.

One practical note on the widest builds: our installation teams do not travel with a lift, so on a barn that wide you will need to have equipment on site to help raise the roof into place.

What can I customize in my metal barn?

Style, roof, size and colour are all made to order, and the centre building and lean-tos are specified separately. You can add windows, walk-in doors, garage doors on the front, end or side, panels to close in the open sides, gable ends, J-trim, extra bows or trusses, and the anchors suited to your foundation.

Send us what you are considering and we will confirm what is available in your area and price it into the quote.

What are my color options metal barn?

Roof, sides and trim are chosen separately, so the barn can be matched to the other buildings on your property. Color is tied to the panel gauge: 29 gauge carries a warranty of up to 20 years against chipping and cracking, and 26 gauge up to 40 years against fading.

We work with several manufacturers and the specific colors stocked vary by region. Send us the colors you are considering and we will confirm what is available near you.

Can I include electric or water in my metal barn?

Many of our customers want to include running water or electricity in the metal buildings we install. We do not install the electric or plumbing when the installation team puts up the metal barn. If you plan to pour a concrete or asphalt slab for your barn, make sure that you plan ahead and get all pipes laid and accounted for. This includes any necessary plumbing to include a bathroom in your new metal building. Call your utility company to learn more while you are in the early stages of preparing for your new metal barn.

You should also consider the amount of light that is needed in the new metal barn, and talk with an electrician if you plan to have interior or exterior lighting on your metal barn.

Should I add a moisture barrier to my metal building?

No matter how you intend to use your custom metal building, it’s a good idea to include a vapor barrier. We provide and install a number of moisture barrier options, including:

1. Single-bubble vapor barrier

2. Double-bubble vapor barrier

3. Prodex-equivalent vapor barrier

4. Pre-installed DripStop moisture control system

If temperature control is also a priority for your building application, you’ll also want to add some thermal insulation like spray foam, rigid board panels, or fiberglass insulation. If you have questions about which moisture control and climate control options are right for your new metal building, just connect with one of our friendly building specialists and we’ll be happy to help.

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